Monday, 26 May 2014

The song of a Cuckoo .....

You may wonder what this blog post has in store going by the title - all will be revealed in this visual and audible narrative.

Just after my last blog post I had a very exciting and inspiring time in London at the Society of Botanical Artists Exhibition.  This is turning into a wonderful time of year when many friends get the chance to meet, catch up on news and share our botanical art ideas.  What was even more special was that those special friends were there to see me receive an award at the exhibition.

Many thanks to Katherine Tyrrell for the image.

I was thrilled to have been awarded a Certificate of Botanical Merit (CBM) for my painting of Echinacea purpurea.  For me I felt honoured as it is judged by a botanist, this year by Doctor Brent Elliott who is Historian for the Royal Horticultural Society.  You can read more about the other CBMs on Making A Mark.

In addition I had the exciting news that my painting of Galls of Quercus Species sold at the exhibition too.

There was a moment of calm after the exhibition, with a few days to reflect on new artwork ideas, plan a summer of painting and new courses for the Autumn term at Peter Symonds AHED; before another exhibition got underway.

This reflective time entailed visits to two of my favourite places -  Meon Shore, overlooking the Solent and a visit to Swanwick Lakes Nature Reserve.

Tidal pools looking towards Hill Head

I needed to collect some seashore items for a demonstration and also for a painting that I will be using as a teaching piece for two workshops coming up this summer.  The only thing was, I had got the tide times wrong, so therefore I ended up having to go down to the shore at 6am in the morning.  What a treat I was in for.  The beach virtually to myself, tidal pools to splash about in with my wellies on, and the beautiful bird song coming from the adjacent Titchfield Haven Nature Reserve.

Sunrise over Titchfield Haven Nature Reserve

Listen here to the cacophony of bird song on this track and if you listen carefully, you may hear the sound of a cuckoo.



If you didn't hear the cuckoo on that track, you can hear it more on this one, but you may need to up your volume level.



The collection of bits and pieces are gradually being turned into a painting that will evolve over the next few weeks with other items from my collection at home.




I hadn't been to Swanwick Lakes Nature Reserve for what seemed like such a long time.  The day I went there the weather was so glorious and I found myself sitting on the dipping platform overlooking the main lake in front of the classroom (the wooden cabin on the right).  Whilst there I watched the Heron stalk the Coot chicks and then saw the flash of a Kingfisher circle around the lake.  I was actually sitting near where it normally perches !

A sunny perch for me !

This visit was prior to  a workshop that I was teaching there - Botany & Art.  I had 4 students, so plenty of time was spent with each, and along with the usual demonstrations we all got to grips with the botanical features of flowering plants and how to portray them on paper.



The other exhibition that is now in full swing is The Society of Floral Painters exhibition at the Oxmarket Centre of Arts in Chichester.  I have been a member of the SFP since 2000 and the Society was originally set up in the mid 1990's by a group of artists that wanted to exhibit artwork on a floral theme, but in a variety of mediums.  This has been done successfully since its creation and the society also brings many artists together at other social events, workshops and open days.

The current exhibition is on until the 8th June.

Why not come along and have a look or alternatively enjoy this exhibition video.


As for me, once the exhibition is finished, I will be 'diving' into more artwork and hopefully will be exploring some options for 'professional development', that's what they used to call it in my previous working life anyway !

Happy painting !

Wednesday, 7 May 2014

What's in your field-kit ???

There have been some fantastic blogposts lately about drawing and painting field-kits.  The two that most impressed me are by Shevaun Doherty and Polly O'Leary

I find that the contents and method of carrying the field-kit can vary dependant on where you are going to be working.  Shevaun's blogpost is about sketching whilst in a museum and Polly's about studying plants in an area of marsh in the summer heat.

© Shevaun Doherty.  Sketching in Dublin Museum of Natural History

Having worked as an Ecologist in the past I was always used to having a survey field-kit pre-packed according to the survey type.  The kit I used for the woodland, hedgerow and grassland surveys contains many of the same items that I use in my current field-kit for drawing and painting.  More about that later.

Looking back through some images from the last few years I came across a few that show previous field-kits.

2011  A trip to New Hampshire and Maine.  Travelling from England meant that room was limited in my luggage.  Contents: A small A6 sketchbook, palette, Faber Castell fine liners, Pentell brush pen, propelling pencil, cotton rag, waterbrush (that I didn't use), travel sable brush and small folio with individual sheets of watercolour paper within.


2012 A trip to Wales and the Isle of Skomer.  I love this foldaway zip up pouch.  I can fit so much in there, but it folds and zips up completely.  As we were travelling around Wales by car, I could be a bit more extravagant and take a few more materials !

Now to the present .......
 
Recently, I have been sketching woodland plants.  Even though I have visited woods relatively close to home I still wanted to have a compact field-kit with the added addition of a firm surface to work on.
 
 
My present field-kit: An A3 'Weather Writer' (see below), paint palette, H & F pencils, water pot, small rule, scissors, specimen bags, hand lens (several of different magnifications), travel paintbrush, waterbrush (still trying to get used to using these), heavy-weight cartridge paper, ID charts (this one for ferns), Wild Flower Key by Francis Rose (my original one is in pieces, so this is a shiny new one) and finally, a zip up wallet which will contain all of my drawing and painting bits.
 
 

Now to the Weather Writer.  An ingenious invention, that I used non-stop during fieldwork as an ecologist.  It has a flap that closes with studs, which means everything can be contained in the dry.  This can then pop open and if the weather is a bit dodgy, you have a covered area to work under.  In addition on the reverse are two clips to make it into a clip board.  There is also a hole either side (on the A4 model), so that you can string a cord through it and hang it around your neck, which then leaves your hands free.
 
 
I now have a busy few days ahead, so no fieldwork for me.  I am off to London to see the Society of Botanical Artists Exhibition at Westminster Central Hall.  It is a fabulous opportunity to meet up with friends from all over the world.  Four of my paintings are being exhibited too.
 
 
© Sarah Morrish 2014.  A View Inside - Echinacea purpurea

© Sarah Morrish 2014.  A View Inside - Rosa rugosa hips


© Sarah Morrish 2014.  Quercus robur - New life
 
 
 

© Sarah Morrish 2014.  Galls of Quercus species


Friday, 2 May 2014

Print-making at Rum's Eg Gallery

Last year I was invited to teach a print-making workshop at Rum's Eg Gallery in Romsey.



I certainly do not consider myself a print-maker, but it is another form of art that I enjoy taking part in.  What was just something a little different from my usual work, every now and again raises some interest.

The workshop took place on Wednesday and I had a group of six very enthusiastic students.


My aim when teaching about producing lino-cuts, is to introduce students to an inspiring form of print-making, that can be done at home, in a small space if need be and at a reasonable cost.

The carving tools we use for carving are produced by Abig.  I have tried several tool options and these come up as being a good all round tool set for those new to print-making and/or returning to it.  The main thing to consider is that you have a tool handle that is comfortable in your hand.


There is the option of carving into lino.  This is hessian backed and can come in a variety of thicknesses, the most common being 3mm.  During the workshop I introduced the students to another material for carving.  It is called Soft-cut - I think the name says it all.  When using lino you have to make sure that the lino is kept warm.  This is for two reasons: To make it easier to carve and this also means that there is less likelihood of your tools slipping. The Soft-cut is a great option, particularly for workshops and we found that you were still able to achieve clean cuts in the lino and the prints produced from it came out very well.

Carving a design into a piece of soft-cut.

Design ideas

Once the design is carved, the printing can begin !

Rolling sepia water-based printing inks onto the Soft-cut

Printing using my small press.

Last, but not least, the beautiful results from the day.








My next print-making workshop is taking place at Swanwick Lakes Nature Reserve, near Southampton, on Saturday 18th October.

Follow this link for more information.

Saturday, 19 April 2014

Choosing watercolour paper for botanical drawing and painting - part 2

EDIT JANUARY 2019.  THIS HAS PROVEN TO BE A VERY POPULAR BLOGPOST.  IN RECENT TIMES THERE HAS BEEN SOME CHANGES IN THE QUALITY OF SOME WATERCOLOUR PAPERS THAT ARE USED FOR BOTANICAL ART.  SO WHILST STILL USEFUL, THE FINDINGS OF THIS BLOGPOST MAY NOT BE AS ACCURATE TODAY.

In the first blog post connected to this subject, I gave you a general overview of watercolour paper, and specific facts about the paper that can be used for botanical drawing and painting.


As I mentioned before, there were several painting techniques which I thought would be good to test on different hot-pressed papers (left to right):

* applying a wash and then lifting off a small area with a clean moist brush
* blending two colours together and applying a small area of wash on top
* applying a wash and softening the edge with a clean moist brush
* fine brush strokes applied

The colours used were W&N permanent rose and new gamboge

Each of these techniques helped me to gain answers to several questions:

*  How easy it to lift paint from the paper ? This is important to know, particularly if we use this technique to create highlights or softer areas of watercolour.  One thing to bear in mind is that some watercolours are more staining than others, so therefore may be harder to lift off completely.  

Back to the paper - different makes of paper can behave differently.  What can this be due to ?  During the manufacturing process watercolour paper is treated with what is called a 'size'.  This size is a form of protection for the paper and can be applied just to the surface or both internally and externally.  It provides a coating that is invisible and the size may be made of a variety of ingredients.  For example, Saunders Waterford paper is coated externally with a gelatine based size.

Due to the different forms (ingredients and thickness of coating) of size, each paper's surface could behave differently dependant on what painting technique is used.  This means that some hot-pressed papers may be tougher than others and cope with more activity on their surface.  Lifting an area of watercolour wash may well disturb the size and mean that the watercolour soaks more into the paper core, especially if the size is soft or if there is several attempts to lift colour. An ideal situation when using this technique is to ensure that the paper surface is not broken up in anyway.

* Is it easy to blend two colours together?  Particularly useful to know for those artists who use wet into wet techniques or tend to blend their colours on the paper.  Even though the room conditions can dictate how quickly a wash dries, the paper will also be a factor, in terms of whether the paint soaks into the paper or not.

* Can soft edges to washes be achieved, as well as fine detail ?  The information in the last point above also applies to how much you can soften the edge of an area of wash. If the paint dries too quickly it will be harder to achieve this.  In regard to fine detail, this is down to how textured the paper surface is and also how much activity has already taken place on the paper.

As mentioned before, hot-pressed paper is meant to be extremely smooth.  It generally is, although the surface texture may vary in different makes.  The paper is made smooth by being pressed through hot rollers during the manufacturing process.  If there is some texture it is likely that soft woollen felts have been used on the rollers, thereby giving a slight texture to the surface.  

Now for the results.  These are purely based on my own opinions linked to the way that I paint.  Other artists may achieve different results according to their painting style and techniques.

Langton - produced by Daler Rowney
Wood pulp and cotton fibres
* A very subtle texture to the surface
* Lifting off colour, blending, softening and fine lines all achieved well
* A nice colour to the paper
* A good all round paper, particularly suitable as a starter paper for beginners, affordable too

Additional information
Daler Rowney also produce a Langton Prestige HP paper.  It is 100% cotton.  I have not personally tried it, but some of my more experienced students have found the surface quite difficult to work on.

Fabriano 5 / Classico produced by Fabriano
50% cotton
* Good for fine lines
* A very smooth paper
* Seemed quite a white paper
* Less positive for lifting off colour, blending, softening as paint is not so easy to manipulate
* Likely to be good for those techniques that involve less water and very good for fine detail

Arches produced by Canson
100% cotton
Natural gelatine size
* A creamy colour
* Very good for all techniques that I used in the trial, although lifting off of colour was not as easy as with the Langton or Fabriano Artistico
* I used this paper for many years before I changed to Fabriano Artistico.  One thing I did find in the past, was that erasing was not easy on the paper surface

Fabriano Artistico extra white and traditional white produced by Fabriano
100% cotton
Internally and externally sized
* Comes in two colour options - traditional white is very creamy, but good for a lot of subjects especially those of an autumnal and/or warm nature
* Extremely good for all techniques and has a very smooth surface
* This paper takes a certain amount of erasing
* I have found this to be an excellent paper for a variety of other approaches - graphite line drawing and tonal work, pen and ink and wash and mixed media 



Additional information
Presently, I mostly use the latter paper in the 300lb weight, but have also used the lighter weight 140lb.  In the past when I had used another make of paper in both weights, the surfaces felt quite different from each other, even though they were both hot-pressed. In the case of Fabriano Artistico the surfaces of both weights of paper seem very similar.  

Bockingford produced by St. Cuthbert's Mill
100% woodfree bleached chemical pulp (click here for definition)
Internally sized
* A nice coloured paper
* It has a slight surface texture
* Very good for all techniques and will cope with some erasing
* I'm really liking this paper at the moment, and I am now recommending it to my students as a good starter paper


Additional information
St. Cuthberts Mill had previously been producing paper for the Daler Rowney Langton pads (for 15 years). This is no longer the case.  I have been in contact with Daler Rowney as there had been some difficulty in getting hold of the Langton HP paper described above.  They have reassured me that it is still available but declined to say where it is being produced.

I find the Bockingford HP a superior paper to the current Langford and I use a 12 sheet spiral pad per term for my demo pieces in class.

Other papers
The other paper that I would have liked to have tried for this trial is Saunders Waterford, which is also produced by St. Cuthberts Mill.  This was the first hot-pressed paper that I ever used, and I remember being quite nervous of the smooth surface after using cold-pressed paper for a long time for a looser style of painting.

Saunders Waterford HP is 100% cotton, gelatine surface sized and internally sized.  It has a very slight texture to it due to being produced using natural woollen felts in the manufacturing process.

Useful links

St. Cuthberts Mill - How we make paper:  http://www.stcuthbertsmill.com/how-we-make-paper/



Daler Rowney - Watercolour surfaces:  http://www.daler-rowney.com/en/content/watercolour-surfaces

I hope you have found the last two posts about paper useful.

I am having a little break from botanical subjects and am now working on a painting of an Oleander moth on vellum.  So I expect news of that will appear on the blog soon.

A Happy Easter to you all.

Monday, 14 April 2014

Choosing watercolour paper for botanical drawing and painting - part 1

EDIT JANUARY 2019.  THIS HAS PROVEN TO BE A VERY POPULAR BLOGPOST.  IN RECENT TIMES THERE HAS BEEN SOME CHANGES IN THE QUALITY OF SOME WATERCOLOUR PAPERS THAT ARE USED FOR BOTANICAL ART.  SO WHILST STILL USEFUL, THE FINDINGS OF THIS BLOGPOST MAY NOT BE AS ACCURATE TODAY.


How do you choose the right paper for botanical drawing and painting ? 

The most obvious answer is to try them all - but this can be a huge expense, unless of course you try different watercolour papers over many years, as I have.  A few weeks ago I gave my students the opportunity to try 6 different hot-pressed watercolour papers.



Firstly, we covered a few facts about watercolour paper in general:

● The highest quality papers are made of 100% cotton fibre (rag paper).
● They have good durability, can handle a lot of working and last an extremely long time.
● Other papers are made of cellulose or wood pulp or a mixture of these with cotton.
● Not always as durable as the rag paper.
● Cheaper papers of the kind found in discount shops, will not necessarily be acid free and will therefore yellow and deteriorate over time.

Types of paper
● Cold pressed or NOT - this has a medium surface texture and a slight ‘tooth’.  The surface holds colour well and it is a very popular texture for both amateur and professional artists.
● Rough or Extra rough - has a more pronounced texture.  Great for looser styles of painting and creates wonderful textures as the paint settles into the surface.
● Hot pressed - extremely smooth, although some makes of hot pressed paper will vary in texture.  This is the best paper for botanical art and more controlled styles of painting and pen and ink work.  The paper is made smooth by passing it through heated rollers in the manufacturing process.
Weights of paper
● Watercolour papers come in different weights, which refers to the weight of a ream of paper.
● The greater the weight of the paper, the more moisture the paper can take without it buckling or cockling.
● The most commonly used is 300 g/m (per square metre) or 140lb.

Colour of paper
The colour of watercolour paper from different brands and within individual brands can vary.  Some brands of watercolour paper will provide a natural white and an extra white paper.

Right or wrong side
Yes, believe it or not there is a right and a wrong side to hot-pressed watercolour paper.  For most HP papers I use either side as to me there is not a huge difference.
One paper where this does seem to make a difference is Fabriano Artistico HP paper.  If you buy you watercolour paper in sheets the watermark, which is often the brand name of paper is visible and is often located next to the deckle edge.  If this is viewed back to front, ie in reverse, this is the right side of the paper to use in regard to Fabriano Artistico. 
But what if you do not buy it in sheets, but in a block or pad, where there is no watermark ?  If you look closely at either side, and perhaps get a magnifying glass out, you will see that one side has a grid like pattern to the surface of the paper - this is the wrong side.  I hope in the photo above you can see this pattern.


The second part to my student's paper trial session included trying different painting techniques on each sample of paper, to see how receptive the paper was.  These were my examples:


As a guide I decided the best painting techniques to try were (left to right):

* applying a wash and then lifting off a small area with a clean moist brush
* blending two colours together and applying a small area of wash on top
* applying a wash and softening the edge with a clean moist brush
* fine brush strokes applied

Each of these techniques helped me to gain answers to several questions, which I will answer in part 2, following soon !